The City of Bristol's Garden Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Grapes in Urban Gardens
Each quarter of an hour or so, an ageing diesel train pulls into a graffiti-covered stop. Close by, a law enforcement alarm pierces the almost continuous traffic drone. Commuters hurry past falling apart, ivy-draped garden fences as storm clouds gather.
It is perhaps the least likely spot you expect to find a perfectly formed grape-growing plot. But one local grower has cultivated 40 mature vines sagging with plump purplish grapes on a sprawling garden plot sandwiched between a row of historic homes and a commuter railway just north of the city town centre.
"I've seen individuals hiding heroin or other items in the shrubbery," states the grower. "Yet you simply continue ... and keep tending to your grapevines."
The cameraman, forty-six, a filmmaker who runs a fermented beverage company, is among several local vintner. He's pulled together a informal group of cultivators who produce wine from several discreet urban vineyards nestled in private yards and community plots across Bristol. It is sufficiently underground to have an official name yet, but the collective's WhatsApp group is named Vineyard Dreams.
Urban Vineyards Across the World
To date, the grower's plot is the sole location listed in the City Vineyard Network's upcoming global directory, which features better-known urban wineries such as the 1,800 plants on the hillsides of Paris's renowned Montmartre neighbourhood and more than three thousand grapevines overlooking and inside the Italian city. The Italian-based charitable organization is at the forefront of a movement re-establishing city vineyards in traditional winemaking nations, but has identified them throughout the world, including cities in East Asia, Bangladesh and Central Asia.
"Grape gardens help cities remain more eco-friendly and ecologically varied. They protect open space from development by establishing permanent, productive farming plots inside urban environments," says the organization's leader.
Like all wines, those created in urban areas are a product of the soils the vines grow in, the vagaries of the weather and the individuals who tend the fruit. "Each vintage embodies the beauty, local spirit, landscape and heritage of a urban center," adds the spokesperson.
Unknown Polish Variety
Back in the city, the grower is in a race against time to gather the grapevines he cultivated from a plant abandoned in his garden by a Eastern European household. If the rain comes, then the birds may seize their chance to feast once more. "Here we have the enigmatic Polish variety," he comments, as he removes damaged and rotten grapes from the glistering bunches. "We don't really know their exact classification, but they're definitely disease-resistant. Unlike premium grapes – Burgundy grapes, white wine grapes and other famous European varieties – you need not spray them with chemicals ... this could be a unique cultivar that was developed by the Eastern Bloc."
Group Efforts Throughout Bristol
Additional participants of the group are additionally taking advantage of sunny interludes between showers of fall precipitation. On the terrace overlooking the city's glistening waterfront, where medieval merchant vessels once floated with casks of wine from Europe and Spain, one cultivator is harvesting her dark berries from approximately 50 vines. "I adore the aroma of the grapevines. It is so reminiscent," she says, pausing with a basket of fruit slung over her shoulder. "It recalls the fragrance of Provence when you roll down the vehicle windows on holiday."
The humanitarian worker, fifty-two, who has devoted more than two decades working for humanitarian organizations in conflict zones, inadvertently took over the vineyard when she returned to the United Kingdom from East Africa with her household in recent years. She felt an strong responsibility to maintain the vines in the garden of their new home. "This vineyard has previously endured multiple proprietors," she explains. "I really like the concept of natural stewardship – of handing this down to future caretakers so they can keep cultivating from the soil."
Terraced Vineyards and Traditional Production
Nearby, the remaining cultivators of the collective are hard at work on the steep inclines of the local river valley. Jo Scofield has established over one hundred fifty plants situated on terraces in her expansive property, which descends towards the muddy River Avon. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she says, indicating the interwoven grape garden. "It's astonishing to them they are viewing grapevine lines in a city street."
Currently, the filmmaker, sixty, is harvesting bunches of dusty purple Rondo grapes from lines of plants arranged along the hillside with the assistance of her daughter, Luca. The conservationist, a documentary producer who has contributed to streaming service's nature programming and television network's gardening shows, was motivated to plant grapes after observing her neighbor's vines. She's discovered that amateurs can make intriguing, enjoyable traditional vintage, which can sell for upwards of £7 a glass in the increasing quantity of wine bars specialising in minimal-intervention vintages. "It's just incredibly satisfying that you can actually make good, natural wine," she says. "It's very on trend, but in reality it's resurrecting an old way of producing wine."
"When I tread the grapes, the various wild yeasts are released from the skins and enter the liquid," explains Scofield, ankle deep in a bucket of small branches, seeds and red liquid. "That's how wines were historically produced, but commercial producers add sulphur [dioxide] to eliminate the wild yeast and then incorporate a commercially produced culture."
Difficult Conditions and Creative Approaches
A few doors down sprightly retiree Bob Reeve, who motivated Scofield to establish her grapevines, has gathered his friends to pick Chardonnay grapes from the 100 vines he has arranged precisely across multiple levels. Reeve, a northern English PE teacher who worked at Bristol University developed a passion for wine on annual sporting trips to France. But it is a challenge to grow Chardonnay grapes in the humidity of the valley, with temperature fluctuations moving through from the Bristol Channel. "I aimed to make French-style vintages here, which is a bit bonkers," says the retiree with amusement. "This variety is slow-maturing and very sensitive to fungal infections."
"I wanted to make Burgundian wines in this environment, which is rather ambitious"
The unpredictable local weather is not the only problem faced by winegrowers. The gardener has had to install a barrier on