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When compiling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee familiar award-winning names. However, nestled prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a distant corner of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

This small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. The honour has left the proprietors totally surprised.

“I am totally astonished,” remarks the proprietor, pointing to his family’s relentless work that led to their modest shop securing such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its original character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the cuisine, and this establishment certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender texture.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

It is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this gastronomic triumph.